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THE YEAR BETWEEN

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Sampling the Local Cuisine: Game Meat, Biltong, Curries & Pizza

During our first few weeks in Africa, we tried our fair share of game meat, including oryx, kudu, springbok, crocodile and even zebra. In case you’re wondering, the best are kudu and oryx - both tender red meat similar to fine cuts of steak. The worst was crocodile, which we found to be like chewy chicken with a slightly fishy taste. Needless to say, not appetizing. Although some crocodile sausages we tried later were actually very good. 

“African food” will be different depending on what country you’re in, but at least in southern Africa, it’s usually a basic meal of meat and vegetables, the starchier the better. Potatoes, in their many forms and variations, are very popular. If you don’t love meat’n’potatoes, get ready to eat other rich, heavy foods like pasta, stew and curry. While the food isn’t very fancy, it’s always very filling. Unlike the eating habits of Americans, it seems like African people eat to nourish their bodies and celebrate with their families, not because food is their favorite hobby. (Mostly calling out myself here. No shame.)

Meat is even a popular snack food here, in the form of biltong, which is what we call beef jerky. Biltong can be found in almost any store, from the gas station to the classiest grocery store (Woolworth’s). According to Mike, who has eaten much more Biltong than I have, biltong is essentially the exact same thing as good quality beef jerky sold in America. The difference here is that it’s more popular and thus they’ve created it in countless flavor variations and with not only beef but also game meats and even tuna (we didn’t try that one, though)!

Another very popular food here is curry. Closest in taste to Indian curries, many of the curries we’ve had were distinct in flavor profile with slightly different spices (although I couldn’t tell you what they are). You find all kinds of curries at buffets and on menus - chicken, beef, fish, prawn, red, brown and even yellow. 

As you get closer to Durban, the curries become spicier and more Indian-tasting. Sometimes curries are even called “Durban curry” and you know that means it will be very similar to a classic Indian curry. We’ve been told that more advanced palates would be able to tell the difference, but to us it tastes just like our Indian favorites. 

While I rarely if ever order a steak back home, Mike and I both love curry, so we’ve enjoyed eating that whenever possible and trying as many new and different foods as we can, when we have the option. 

One of the foods we were surprised to be eating a lot during our first month in Africa was pizza. 

Now, some of you may be thinking, “Pizza?! Why are they eating food they can get in America! That is so lame.” A guy we met in Soweto told us he “refused to eat pizza in Africa.” Well, good for him and no offense intended, but when you’re on the road for months and months, visiting more than a dozen new countries, you can’t afford to be super picky and only eat high-quality food at nice restaurants. You want food to be three things: filling, cheap, and, most of all, safe (meaning it won’t make you sick). 

We quickly realized that pizza is a budget traveler’s dream food in this way. It’s generally cheap, filling and consistent. As any college student will attest, even bad pizza is good. You don’t have to worry about getting sick from unwashed (or washed with bad water) veggies or meats. When you sink your teeth into a piping hot slice and immediately burn your tongue because, yes, you should have waited but you’re just so hungry, you know it has been cooked long enough for any bugs or bacteria to die a hot, fiery death.

But it’s not just the taste and temperature that’s consistent. Pizza is extraordinarily easy to find. Even in small towns in Namibia or on remote islands in the Indian Ocean, there’s a pizza place. Honestly, we probably ate more pizza in our first month in Africa than we would have in the U.S. Not that we’re mad about it - we like pizza as much as the next kid from New Jersey. But let this post show anyone who has ever said, “what do they even eat in Africa” (or “I could never go to Africa, I’m such a picky eater”) the answer is pizza.

Note: in most of Africa, or every part off the beaten tourist path, the answer is actually maize, or “mealies” or ”pap," which we also tried a few times, but found quite bland with the consistency of too-dry mashed potatoes… or play-doh. 

Now, it’s important to say here that this post was written before we spent much time in South Africa, so it mostly applies to our time in Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Seychelles ad Lesotho. Once we arrived in South Africa and spent time in big cities like Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth, Cape Town and many of the towns along the Garden Route, we ate more of the food that we’re used to back home: Italian, Thai and even sushi (much to Grace’s delight). Although we still snacked on plenty of biltong. 

tags: Africa, food, Namibia, eats, biltong, Seychelles, travel, The Year Between
Monday 12.07.15
Posted by Grace Evelyn
 

Two-Week Road Trip in Namibia

This post is a recap of the two weeks we spent driving around Namibia in October 2015. See links to galleries throughout for additional photos from each destination. 

While we were in the planning phase back in Denver (which feels like years ago...), a few people mentioned Namibia, recalling the eerie mist of the skeleton coast and off-roading on striking sand dunes. After doing some basic research, we had seen enough to know that we wanted to check it out. But still, we hesitated when it came to booking. Going with a tour group would probably be the easiest option, but that's simply not our style. 

Luckily, we discovered a wonderful company based in Namibia that has been helping travelers plan self-guided trips for more than 20 years. They got their start as the first backpackers hostel in Namibia and grew large enough that they opened The Cardboard Box, a separate travel shop. 

Allison at The Cardboard Box is a total rock star. She put up with multiple emails from us asking basic questions and changing our schedule. When we landed in Windhoek, the capital, we still didn’t know exactly where we were going. And we definitely didn’t understand how awesome the two weeks that lay ahead of us would be. 

On that first day in Windhoek, we went through customs and picked up our rental car. Now, we’ve both driven rental cars before, but never with the steering wheel on the other side of the car, while driving on the other side of the road. Oh, and the cars are only manual, which I (Grace) cannot drive. I also wasn’t covered as a second driver under our already expensive rental car agreement.

So, Mike did all the driving in Namibia. Like a boss. 

And it was quite a bit of driving. In total, more than 2,280 km, which is 1,415+ miles! Starting in Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia, we drove southwest to Sossusvlei. Then, we continued driving clockwise, hitting Walvis Bay and Swakopmund on the coast, then Brandberg, then Etosha National Park, and finally Waterberg before ending up back in Windhoek. 

All of the places we saw were amazing in their own way. While we could have had more time (you can always have more time), two weeks was the perfect amount to see the variety of destinations that we did and get a taste of Namibian history, food, people and culture.

Oh, and we saw a bunch of exotic animals, too!

Here are the highlights by destination: 

Like I said, Windhoek is the capital of Namibia and the busiest city we stayed in, although it's still small enough to see by car in about 30 minutes. To put it in context, the population is around 300,000 (the total population of Namibia is only 2.3 million). We used Windhoek as our entry and exit point, spending our first and last night there. Although we didn't do too much in the city, we were still able to eat some great food (check out our Joe's Beerhouse review if you haven't read it already) and explore a bit. One of the best parts about Windhoek was meeting Allison on our last day and telling her all about our experiences and newfound love for Namibia. 

Sossusvlei is one of the most striking landscapes we've ever seen. We were honestly amazed when we arrived at Desert Quiver Camp after six hours of driving on bumpy, unpaved roads. There were small "tents" or cabins, lined up in a semi-circle with nothing but sand and the occasional tree as far as the eye could see. It was 40+ degrees celsius, which is HOT, but luckily the resort had a pool (of which we immediately took advantage).

It was kind of freaky how quickly we adjusted to life on the Namibian road. That night, we even had a little braai (Afrikaans for barbecue) of oryx meat that we ordered from reception. The highlight was the next day, when we got up early and drove into park, spotting springbok, gemsbok, a fox and an ostrich. We hiked Dune 45 and went all the way to Deadvlei, which we loved until a sand storm rolled in. No one would go to Sossusvlei and not go into the park but, just to be clear, it is breathtaking and not to be missed. Had we had another day in the area, we would have gone back in for more exploring. 

Driving from Sossusvlei to Walvis Bay was going from one extreme to its polar opposite. Sossusvlei was hot and dry, and Walvis Bay was cold and wet.

Before getting to Walvis Bay, though, we stopped in Solitaire. Even though it was only an hour-long detour, it was one of our favorite parts of the trip. Solitaire is nothing more than a "town" of less than 100 people built around a gas station and legendary German bakery. We stretched our legs, took some photos and feasted on apple pie and other baked goods before continuing on toward the coast. 

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Walvis Bay and Swakopmund are coastal cities 40 km apart. We stayed in Swakopmund (at The Alternative Space, a unique hostel turned B&B with the coolest owners ever) but drove back down to Walvis Bay one morning for a boat tour of the harbor. Don't underestimate how much there is to do in Swakopmund. We chose sandboarding, since we had never done it before, but other options were skydiving, ATV tours, camel rides, off-roading... the list goes on. There are also plenty of cute restaurants and coffee shops. If you have time and money to burn, spend a week packed full of activities and I guarantee it will be one of the best vacations of your life.

On our way out of town, we stopped to see one of the shipwrecks that contributes to the nickname "Skeleton Coast," given to Namibia's foggy, rocky and treacherous shoreline.  

The highlights of our time in Mt. Brandberg were seeing the White Lady cave painting (disclaimer: it's sort of a check-the-box thing if you're not a history geek) and encountering our first elephants. Oh, and hanging out with Carlos the suricate, who the B&B calls "everybody's darling." I still laugh every time I think about him. The Brandberg White Lady Lodge also puts on a fun buffet dinner capped off with lively singing by the kitchen staff, which was a blast. 

The nicest place we stayed in Namibia was arguably Palmwag. It was too bad that we only had 24 hours to enjoy the multiple swimming pools, outdoor bar and waterhole directly behind our room! While there, we went on a swanky evening game drive (wine and blanket-ponchos make it swanky) and saw a bunch of animals for the first time, most notably giraffes and zebras. On our way out, we encountered a large bull who we had heard about from the hotel staff. He walked directly in front of our car, less than four meters away from where we sat. It was a crazy moment and we got some great photos.

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Good thing we went to Brandberg and Palmwag before Etosha National Park, because it blew them both clean out of the water. Etosha is a safari mecca, especially in October, the driest month right before the rainy season is supposed to start. (I say "supposed to" because the area is currently experiencing one of the worst droughts in the last 100 years.) The land is so dry that animals must go to a few main waterholes for water, and you can drive your own car right up to them. We saw four of the "Big 5" and got some ridiculous animal photos there. It was awesome! 

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Our last stop, Waterberg National Park was nice, but we wouldn't have wanted any more than the one night we had. Hiking to the top of the plateau was cool, but it only took us 30 minutes and after that we just relaxed in our room. The one plus-side of stopping here is it breaks up the drive from Etosha to Windhoek, which would be about five hours otherwise. 

Getting Lucky (a Public Service Announcement): it's amazing that we didn't get a flat tire while we were there. Nearly all roads other than four major highways are unpaved, so be prepared to take it slow and deal with hours of bumpy terrain. 

What We'd Do Differently: we wish we would have driven from Etosha National Park straight to the Okavango Delta and into Zambia from there, since we were going there next anyway. We flew from Windhoek to Livingstone, connecting through Joburg, because we didn't know any better, thus missing the Delta, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa. Of course, if you're not going anywhere else in Africa from Namibia, you could still drive to the Okavango Delta and then fly out of Sir Seretse Khama Intl. Airport (in Gaborone, Botswana) or do what we did and circle back to Windhoek to fly out. Other than that, we wouldn't change anything about our road trip. 

In conclusion (phew!), when it comes to seeing Africa, you're looking at a huge continent made up of 54 countries and just over a billion people. It would take years of heavy travel to feel like you’d seen most of it. That said, you have to start somewhere, and it’s surprising that Namibia isn’t on more American travelers' radar. It's an excellent country to visit and even better if it's your first introduction to the diverse, culturally rich place that is Southern Africa. It's accessible, easy to navigate, English-speaking, and typically very safe. So, have we convinced you to start planning your own trip yet? If not, we still have nine months of travel to go... 

tags: Namibia, road trip, road trip through Namibia, Windhoek, travel, The Year Between, driving in Namibia
Friday 11.20.15
Posted by Grace Evelyn
 

Restaurant Review: Joe's Beerhouse

On our first night in Namibia, we ended up at Joe's Beerhouse for dinner. Known to be a "Windhoek institution," Joe's was recommended by a few people, including the people working at the B&B where we were staying. 

We had heard only that it gets packed and we'd need a reservation, which we figured was a good sign. But we still had no idea what kind of food people ate in Namibia and thus didn't know what to expect.

Luckily, it was only a 10 minute walk from the B&B and they made the reservation for us. Still jet-lagged, doe-eyed travelers, we made our way to dinner, attempting to look natural although I'm sure our eyes were darting all over the place. 

When we got to the restaurant, I was excited to see a huge outdoor seating area with funky African decor everywhere. And I mean everywhere. Covering the walls, in the center of all open areas, hanging from the bar and even on the ceilings.

Joe's has a very cool ambiance and the menu to match. Their eclectic mix of options includes everything from burgers to local game meat. It turns out that Namibian food is generally hearty, meat-and-potatoes dishes, often with a German flair (the lingering influence of German colonization from 1884-1915). 

Mike, feeling more adventurous, ordered the Bushman Sosatie game meat kebob. Flustered by my inability to make a decision, I ordered pork schnitzel. (This was the first of many times to come that Mike "out-ordered" me.)

While waiting for our food, we chatted with a friendly german couple seated next to us at the picnic table - that's another cool thing about Joe's, most tables are community seating, so it's basically guaranteed that you'll meet and mingle with fellow travelers. They were celebrating their last night in Namibia after a three week trip and told us that they'd eaten at Joe's on the first night and loved it so much that they came back. Another good sign! 

The schnitzel was tasty but covered in a thick, too-rich sauce and the portion could have fed a family of four. Mike and I both tried each kind of game meat - zebra, crocodile, kudu, oryx and springbok. The crocodile was our least favorite - it was sort of like chewy, slightly fishy chicken. But the rest were quite tasty and not game-y at all, especially the kudu and oryx, both of which we'd eat again and again in the following weeks.

Not only are there interesting things to read and look at all over the walls, they can also be found in the menu. I love the following story because it really captures the spirit of travel. Things don't always go right, but you usually walk away with more than you expected. 

"THE TALE OF THE PORTUGUESE TRAVELLERS

In August of 2009, two brave Portuguese adventurers attempted a mission to drive across Africa in an old Mini. Ricardo Mota and Adalberto Salveira had a dream of proving just how tough the petit Mini is, and this adventure would be their way of paying tribute to the tiny car.

They bought an old Mini in Durban and immediately headed to Maputo in Mozambique. From there, they would drive from the Indian Ocean across Africa all the way to Luanda on the Atlantic coast. 

The two intrepid adventurers left Maputo on the 3rd of August, traversing Africa's rough roads in their little Mini. Mota and Salveira travelled about 1,000km per day, crossing the northern part of South Africa and heading into Botswana before making it to Namibia. 

Although they didn't encounter any serious problems, the trip was not without its challenges. A couple of flat tyres caused minor problems, but the weak headlights on the old Mini made driving at night challenging, especially with huge swarms of mosquitoes getting in the way!

When they finally made it to the Angola border for the final part of their trip, Fate dealt them a cruel hand. Due to visa problems, they would not be allowed into the country. Mota and Salveira were devastated - their dream lay in shards just a few hundred kilometres from their final destination. 

But Fate had another plan in store for them - turning around at the border and heading south through Namibia, Mota and Salveira arrived at Joe's Beerhouse. Here, the two adventurers regaled guests with their tales of adventure on Africa's roads, sipping cold beers and getting the occasional opportunity to converse in their mother tongue with other Angolese visitors to Joe's.

So impressed were the two with the hospitality (and cold beer and delicious food) that they donated their now-legendary Mini to Joe's Beerhouse. Today, Joe's Beerhouse is proud to have been part of this amazing tale of adventure, and our owners eagerly retell the tale of Ricardo Meta and Adalberto Salveira to anyone who asks about the old Mini standing outside." 

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If you ever find yourself in Windhoek, a stop by this joint to exchange travel tales, sample tasty game, or at the very least enjoy a cold beer, is a must. 

tags: Joe's Beerhouse, Windhoek, Namibia, restaurant review, travel, travel stories, The Year Between
Friday 11.20.15
Posted by Grace Evelyn
 

Sandboarding in Swakopmund, Namibia

tags: sandboarding, travel, Swakopmund, Namibia
Wednesday 10.28.15
Posted by Grace Evelyn
 

Close Encounters with Desert Elephants

Until we pulled up and saw the “Home of the Desert Elephant” sign, we didn’t even know that there were elephants in Brandberg. But, sure enough, there are no less than 60 desert elephants in the area and we were lucky enough to leave with a few encounter stories to share. 

A quick note, I did some research on the subspecies of African elephant and discovered that there are only two, the Savanna (or Bush) elephant and the Forest elephant. The type I'm talking about here are Savanna elephants, which Namibians in the Brandberg region refer to as Desert elephants. 

The reason most people go to Brandberg is to see the white lady, a 2000+ year old bushmen painting on a small overhang deep within Namibia's highest mountain. To see the painting, you have to hire a guide and hike in. The hike is only about three miles through straightforward terrain, but guides are needed both to protect the painting against vandalism and to protect hikers from animals. 

Our guide, Rion, was a very friendly guy. One of the first things he hold us was that there were indeed desert elephants in the riverbed that you hike through to get to the white lady. He explained that it was fine as long as we were okay with hiking on the rocks to avoid them. 

Since elephants are very territorial, and desert elephants can be particularly aggressive, you need to keep your distance. If you get too close, they will charge you. However, they don’t climb on rocks, so if you stay on high ground, they won’t feel threatened and you’ll be fine.

Luckily for us, Rion was very knowledgeable about the elephants and emphasized how much respect he has for them, which is the reason he knows so much about them. 

Thanks to Rion, we know that desert elephants are smaller than the forest elephants that live in other parts of Namibia, like Etosha National Park, and can survive on only 250 liters of water every five days. That might be enough or even a lot for a human but is not a lot for an elephant.

They can smell water up to 6m below the ground and dig with their feet and trunks to get to it. When they find water, they drink by sucking up to 9 liters of it into their trunk and then putting the end of the trunk in their mouth and emptying the water in.

Okay, done nerding out about elephants for now... 

Along our hike to the white lady, we saw five bulls (male elephants) in the riverbed, mostly hanging out in the shade under trees. On the way back, we saw two drinking from a small hole they had just dug.

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It was so cool to see our first elephants in the wild and get photos with them. We had no idea we’d be running into them again so soon.

When we got back to the Brandberg White Lady Lodge, we saw two men standing at the wall directly behind our tent. We noticed them right away and wondered what they were doing. As we got out of the car, a truck with more men pulled up and we realized they worked for the lodge. One of the guys pointed in the direction of the yard area of our tent, where the outdoor sink and cooking area is, and said “we’re just repairing the water lines. Elephants just came through here and tore it all up.” 

We looked in the direction he was pointing and it all clicked. The desert elephants dig for water. There are water lines and plumbing around the tent. We had narrowly missed the elephants! “Elephants were here? How long ago?” we asked. 

“Oh, 10-15 minutes. They come through and get the water up and then drink. I tried to scare them away and one smaller bull chased me - you can see the footprints.”

Sure enough, in the sandy dirt were huge circular elephant footprints.

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We asked if that happens a lot and he told us they repair water lines twice a day. Twice a day! 

Mike and I couldn’t believe that we had thought we were close to the elephants in the valley and meanwhile, as we drove up the road, they were mere feet from where we’d be sleeping.

When the guy told us that the tent were were staying in “seems to be their favorite,” I thought, “oh, great, what if they come back in the middle of the night…”

But if they did come back, we didn’t hear them, and in the morning all the water lines were still underground. 

We were on the lookout for more but never saw any. We’d have to wait until Palmwag, our next stop, for more experiences with the big, beautiful troublemakers. 


tags: travel, elephants, desert elephants, the white lady, Brandberg, The Year Between
Wednesday 10.21.15
Posted by Grace Evelyn
 

Can you believe we're in Africa?

We landed in South Africa less than 48 hours ago and it has been a total whirlwind. Mike and I keep looking at each other and asking, "can you believe we're in Africa right now?" We also simply say to each other, "we're in Africa right now" to make sure the other person is aware. 

After so many months of planning, it's surreal to finally be here. I can't decide if it feels like it has been weeks already or like we got here five minutes ago.

We actually arrived Wednesday at 8:30 a.m. local time. We spent our first night at a hostel in Boksburg, a town about 30 minutes outside Joburg's city centre, chosen for it's proximity to the airport in a generally quieter, safer residential area. The hostel was perfect for what we needed - a spot to crash and relax for a night. Although it was hot as hell. 

I'm committed to blogging more frequently now that we're so much farther away and venturing deeper into the unknown. That said, we're still getting used to the time change and need to pack up and get on the road to head to Sossusvlei. But first, here are some quick thoughts on safety:

Disclaimer: we've only been here for two days, so these are just initial observations and reactions. 

The thing we heard over and over again when telling people that South Africa and surrounding countries were on the itinerary was "it's not safe." Well, that can be counterproductive, not to mention unsettling, when we've already committed to going. I had no idea what to expect as we pulled away from the Johannesburg airport. At first I was struck by how similar it looked to the U.S. - although there were a lot more walls and fences around, well, everything.

When we arrived at the Mbizi hostel in Boksburg, one of our first questions was about safety. The host assured us that it was fine to walk around. Again in Windhoek last night, when we asked about safety, we were told, "don't wear your packs and you'll be fine. We haven't had a problem in the ten years we've been here." Sure enough, we ventured out in both cities and found no issue with walking to the store as well as to and from dinner.

Moms, don't worry, we're still on alert and aware of our surroundings, but it's great to see that at least the two small areas of Africa that we've seen so far aren't that big, bad and scary after all. While I'm sure this sense of security will be tested in the larger metropolitan areas, I'm certainly glad we eased into Africa by staying in places like Boksburg and Windhoek first. 

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The pool at Mbizi backpackers hostel in Boksburg

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tags: travel, africa, south africa, namibia, The Year Between
Friday 10.09.15
Posted by Grace Evelyn
 
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